Kerala Backwaters

Welcome to the Green-ist part of India. 

Kerala - The south western State. A tropical destination hot spot. Beaches, surf, tropical backwaters, fruit plantations-- and actually some rather 'clean' towns.

Below is a common India Lunch, a 'Thali' with rice, curry, and a few different sauces, plus a yogurt, and usually a variation of Naan bread. Sometimes served on a plate, sometimes on a leaf- but never with cutlery. Its finger lick'in delicious.

The Backwaters 

*sigh*

The calmest place in India.

Breath Taking.

Keith and I took a day tour through these backwater in one of these boats. 

We visited some island villages, learned how coconut husk is made into thread (which hold this boat together), how fermented coconut liquor is made, and visited some beautiful gardens.

Easy does it--- No Rush here as our guide pushes us through the jungles' waters with a bamboo pole.

He didn't speak english...but he smiled at us. 

:)

On this secluded island, we visited a 2 man factory house.

A Clam Shell Processing Plant

This is a mound of clam shells- (after the meat has been removed) will be slowly roasted. Baked down into a fine powder then used in making cement, paints and fertilizers.

We continued down the river a watched these men hard at work- carrying mounds of sand on there head to a nearby construction site. 

Notice the boat- full of sand, to the point where it's 'almost' sinking.

just another day at the office...

 These boys were so excited to see that a bunch of white people travelled around the world- to see how they live.

They ran up to the shore line, and giddily waved.

This feeling...

peaceful, serene, breathing deeply the fresh jungle air, *silence, awe, a new found appreciation.

These backwaters of Kerala were a treat. 

My soul felt rejuvenated, humbled and at peace.

There's something about the jungle that really speaks to my soul.

And then back in town- I went to a traditional south Indian Dance performance.

This character is Shiva (one of the popular Hindu Deities) 

It took place in this traditional theatre and told and story of Ramana and Shiva, and some of there adventures.

Fun. Cultural. Colorful. and Loud.

Loving India.

A Land of Contrasts; Beauty and Filth

(no offense is intended with the following entry)

Is India really as Beautiful as it looks on my blog??

The answer is Yes!... in Addition to its equivalent in Filth

In reflection, I see I've portrayed a rather biased view of India.
Thus this entry is intended to balance the scales, perhaps show you the 'Nastier' side -that the travel guides don't want you to see...

this is what happens to beaches, when garbage bins, don't exist.

 A country of over a Billion People, India takes the Cake when talking about Diversity.

There's : Ashrams, Gurus, Bollywood (which now produces more films annually than Hollywood), beautiful crystals, beside mounds of garbage, smiling faces amidst slums, children beggars and BMWs on the street. Beautiful Temples and Massive Ghettos. The pharmaceutical invasion, next door to the traditional Ayurvedic healing centres. Tea plantations, sprinkled with garbage.

Yet they've somehow managed to preserve their ancient culture better than any I know of. With the Saris, traditional foods, temples, religion and traditional occupations.
Everything is so colorful, the food;  the dress, the forests, the flowers...

However it's grotesquely Polluted.

Without a primary disposal system, combined with the plastic revolution- India's streets, alleyways, backyards and forests have garbage everywhere. 

                

Not to mention roaming animals eating the waste(dogs, cats, cows, goats), somehow digesting it, and in turn leaving their excrements to add to the already piled up mound of a rotting stench. (on the sidewalk)

It seems that every city street is clouded by thick exhaust fumes - and the soundscape- and endless hymn of HONNNNKKK!! HOOONNNKNKKKK!

Delicious food, that makes you savor every bite...then a few hours later has you hugging the toilet, as you moan in pain from the intense stomach cramps that accompany food poisoning.
(side note; not every meal ends like this)

On an average day, I'll see about 10 men pissing in the street, and if I'm lucky a few more squatting around a corner going #2... 

One day in India will have your sense's both Seduced and Disgusted, in fact- that will likely happen in a minute. I've literally vomited in mouth (just a little) when passing by a random street stench, then a minute later been allured by the markets' inviting aromas.


This image below was taken on one of the most Enchanting Train rides I've ever been blessed to take. From Ooty to Coimbuture- we went thru cloud forests, tea plantations, eucalyptus forests, passed Waterfalls, rivers and stopped for Chai (ofcourse).
This Train ran on an original steam engine, 168 years old.
Keith and I happened to be in the front cabin, an thus got soaked in steam! with everyones glasses constantly fogging up.

While breath taking-yes, what you don't see in this image, is that everyone tosses their garbage out the window. Compounding over a hundred years - you could imagine what that looks like.
It's sad because it's not a reflection of the local peoples lack of appreciation for their country's beauty- rather, a lack of a government program to deal with all the waste. And even if they ever do get a garbage program, it'll be years, if not decades, before a population can adjust.

...but still-- these views---- wow
Tea Plantation, in the mountains near Ooty.
(view from train)

And here we have a Eucalyptus Forest. Not a very clear photo I know, but capturing the Tuk-Tuk really puts this forest to scale. a.k.a. GIANT
The air in this forest was incredible.

These flowers are hung in a woman's hair, or adorned unto statues of deities. These flower stalls are everywhere and offer an incredible fresh aroma of Jasmine, Lotus Flower and Carnations.

*Insert Willy Wonka The Candy Man song* 'The Banana Man can...The Banana Man Can!!

The Nilgiris, Tamil Nadu. Epic river + waterfall.
Here I got into a playful water fight with a newly married Hindu woman on her honeymoon.
The water was crystal clear.








And thus; Thru Filth, Beauty Persists

Temple of Krishna

While in Hampi, we went a Templin'.
In the centre on the Temple of Krishna, are dozens of hallow pillars, that you can Tap, and it will produce a perfect note. This part was blocked off, but I finagled my way with the guards (aka; batted my eyelashes...and paid them off-- lol), and got let in.

I am cheaky one...

I tapped, and the pillars Om'ed in various tones.

Anyways, these pillars were amazing- and not unlike the pillars I visited in the Yucatan some years ago, when I went with Terry and Jeananne (if you're reading!). There, they would gong the pillars, and the vibration produced would be so intense, that you could lean your back you against it and receive 'an ancient form of chiropractics'... spinal adjustments, healings and so forth.

Interesting how ancient temples in India and caves in Mexico, from completely different time periods, have remarkably similar structures.

It's amazing the healing power of the Earth...

When we Tune In.

Hampi River

Arriving to this, at 5:30 in the morning, we wandered around, watched the sunrise from the Shiva Temple, then came across this River- (still with all our stuff, not having found a room yet)

One of my favorite places in India so far

Hampi, Karnataka

  Mesmerizing does not even begin to describe this place. 

Giant boulders everywhere, - the size of your house, everything looks thousands of years old, the people are peaceful, there is a river-  a fresh water source where the entire town collectively bathes and washes their laundry.

  Things are serene. We are in Awe.

Welcome to Hampi, Karnataka. This ancient village in central(ish) India is build around/in dozens of ruins and temples. Many families actually live in 500 year old houses- (and some even older).

 Keith and I arrived here at 5:30 am, after a VERY bumpy overnight bus ride. Yawning, gathering my things and stepping off the bus into darkness, I am bombarded by Rickshaw drivers Yelling- "Where you go? Come wit me! Come Madam! Come!" I softly respond  "...chai??"-while rubbing the sleep from my eyes. We drink chai, watch the sunrise and begin to explore this ancient village. -(still not having found a room).

Because we arrived so early, in the distance we hear a group of devotee's 'Om'-ing-- Keith and I decide to follow the Om and find ourselves inside a Temple, with an Elephant, devotees practicing and these two lovely boys, who kept looking at me and giggling. I played with them for a bit, and they asked 'One photo maam', one photo??" --so cute. 

This picture (below) is a random street corner of Hampi. Several hundred years old, repainted many times and filled with life. Just around the corner to the left was the bus station, and the right was the bustling market.

Across the river from Humpi, a 10 rupee boat ride (about 20 cents) is the more 'chilled' atmosphere. We found ourselves a thatched roof bungalow, across the dirt road from this Rice Plantation.

This rice is maybe one month old. These woman work all day in cow poo, (quite literally - used as a fertilizer), for maybe 50 Rupee's per day (one dollar). Back Breaking, in the scorching sun, in a stunning atmosphere- This is where rice come from. (or one example at least)

Over the next few days, Keith and I explored Temples. Upon reaching the top of this monument, we found a Baba (an elder Hindu devotee who renounces all worldly processions in search of a higher spiritual attainment) - who read palms. He gave Keith an extensive reading, which he describes as being 'benevolently accurate, challenging to pick thru the broken english yet Enlightening none the less'

Surely a moment not soon to be forgotten.

And down the Rabbit hole I did go...

India is Enchanting, Overwhelming, Colorful, stinky - yet aromatic, Amazing Food, Food poisoning, Incredible Forests and Disgusting Streets. Spiritually Enhancing and Hygienically Challenging.

I am Loving Every Second.